First Aid Beauty 0.3% Retinol Complex Serum with Peptides Versus Avène RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream

First Aid Beauty 0.3% Retinol Complex Serum with Peptides Versus Avène RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Propionate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Retinyl Propionate

Retinol

Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Citric Acid

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Disodium EDTA

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Laureth-4

Mica

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 60

Propanediol

Sodium Citrate

Sorbitan Isostearate

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Laureth-4, Mica, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, Sodium Citrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77891

Triethylhexanoin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Ceteareth-20

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Ceteareth-33

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Benzoic Acid

Retinal

Tocopheryl Glucoside

Oleoyl Dipeptide-15

Sodium Hydroxide

Silica

Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31

Tocopherol

Titanium Dioxide

Caramel

CI 17200

Water, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ceteareth-20, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ceteareth-33, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Retinal, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Oleoyl Dipeptide-15, Mica, Sodium Hydroxide, Silica, BHT, Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31, Tocopherol, Titanium Dioxide, Caramel, CI 17200

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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