First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Colloidal Oatmeal to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Squalane

Sodium Citrate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Colloidal Oatmeal

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Dimethicone

Sucrose

Pentylene Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Lactic Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ceramide NP

Saccharide Isomerate

Superoxide Dismutase

Ubiquinone

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Adenosine

Collagen Amino Acids

Hydroxyproline

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glycolic Acid

Carnitine

Glycine

Carnitine Hcl

Lactobacillus Ferment

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 60

Carbomer

Ammonium Hydroxide

Potassium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Rose Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Squalane, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceramide NP, Saccharide Isomerate, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Adenosine, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycolic Acid, Carnitine, Glycine, Carnitine Hcl, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Ammonium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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