Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Colloidal Oatmeal to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness. This brighteni

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Colloidal Oatmeal to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Glycolic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Squalane

Sodium Citrate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Colloidal Oatmeal

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

PEG-8 Beeswax

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Glycine Soja Sterols

Sodium Phytate

Tocopherol

Acetamidoethoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Jojoba Esters

Glycolic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Chlorphenesin

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Saccharide Isomerate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil

Linalool

Limonene

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Squalane, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, PEG-8 Beeswax, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Glycine Soja Sterols, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Glycolic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Chlorphenesin, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Saccharide Isomerate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Linalool, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Stearic Acid
  5. 05Hydrogenated Coconut Acid
  6. 06Sodium Isethionate
  7. 07Stearyl Alcohol
  8. 08Allantoin
  9. 09Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
  10. 10Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  11. 11Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  12. 12Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  13. 13Tocopherol
  14. 14Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
  15. 15Phenoxyethanol
  16. 16Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
  17. 17Sodium PCA
  18. 18Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
  19. 19Coco-Glucoside
  20. 20Glyceryl Oleate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side