Skin science article
First Aid Beauty 5 In 1 Face Cream SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
First Aid Beauty 5 In 1 Face Cream SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate sk
First Aid Beauty 5 In 1 Face Cream SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5.6%
Octocrylene 7.5%
Water 4.8%
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Caprylyl Methicone
Copaifera Officinalis Resin
Phenyl Methicone
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Bisabolol
Alpha-Arbutin
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Hydroxylated Lecithin
Polysilicone-11
Methicone
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Polysorbate 60
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5.6%, Octocrylene 7.5%, Water 4.8%, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Methicone, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Phenyl Methicone, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Bisabolol, Alpha-Arbutin, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Hydroxylated Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Methicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.