First Aid Beauty Brighten + Glow Eye Cream with Niacinamide Versus Il Makiage Power Up Eye Cream

First Aid Beauty Brighten + Glow Eye Cream with Niacinamide Versus Il Makiage Power Up Eye Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Maris Aqua

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Polysilicone-11

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Mica

Panthenol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Caffeine

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Citric Acid

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract

Gigartina Stellata/Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hexylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrogenated Polydicyclopentadiene

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Laureth-8

Lecithin

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 60

Silica

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Squalane

Stearic Acid

Tocopherol

Triolein

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

CI 77491

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Maris Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Polysilicone-11, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mica, Panthenol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caffeine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Citric Acid, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Gigartina Stellata/Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polydicyclopentadiene, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Laureth-8, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 60, Silica, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Squalane, Stearic Acid, Tocopherol, Triolein, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77491, CI 77891

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Triheptanoin

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

C13-15 Alkane

Myristyl Lactate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Behenate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Carbomer

Caramel

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Isostearic Acid

Sodium Stearate

Pentaerythritol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ceteareth-20

Calcium Chloride

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Triheptanoin, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, C13-15 Alkane, Caffeine, Myristyl Lactate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Mica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Caramel, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, CI 77491, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Isostearic Acid, Sodium Stearate, Pentaerythritol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ceteareth-20, Calcium Chloride

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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