Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Niacinamide Brightening Eye Cream Versus FaceTheory Ocuwake Eye Cream Eye1
First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Niacinamide Brightening Eye Cream Versus FaceTheory Ocuwake Eye Cream Eye1 This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Niacinamide Brightening Eye Cream Versus FaceTheory Ocuwake Eye Cream Eye1
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Bacillus Ferment to fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Maris Aqua
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Polysilicone-11
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Mica
Panthenol
Gigartina Stellata/Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caffeine
Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Squalane
Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Lecithin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Linoleic Acid
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Silica
Hexylene Glycol
Palmitic Acid
Oleic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Triolein
T-Butyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Maris Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Polysilicone-11, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mica, Panthenol, Gigartina Stellata/Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Linoleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Silica, Hexylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Triolein, T-Butyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, CI 77891, CI 77491
Coco-Caprylate
Urea
Glyceryl Stearate
Bacillus Ferment
Cetyl Alcohol
Dalea Spinosa Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Hexylresorcinol
Sodium Anisate
Sodium Levulinate
Lactic Acid
Glyceryl Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Gellan Gum
Ferulic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Xanthan Gum
Water, Coco-Caprylate, Urea, Glyceryl Stearate, Bacillus Ferment, Cetyl Alcohol, Dalea Spinosa Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Hexylresorcinol, Glycerin, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Lactic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Gellan Gum, Ferulic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Phytate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.
This ingredient is commonly used in skincare because it's more formulation-stable while still offering the same benefits as pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen whereas SAP has been shown to be more stable.
Studies show SAP has anti-acne and antioxidant benefits. One study found 5% of SAP lotion to be an effective ingredient for treating acne vulgaris. This is because research shows that SAP may help control acne by reducing acne-causing bacteria and slowing the oxidation of skin oils caused by UV exposure.
In addition to acne, vitamin C is important for skin structure. Lab studies suggest SAP may support collagen production in skin cells, making it a great ingredient in anti-aging routines.
Vitamin C has many benefits: it helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, fade the appearance of dark spots, and brighten the skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!