Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Firming Collagen Cream With Peptides + Niacinamide Versus Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer
First Aid Beauty Firming Collagen Cream With Peptides + Niacinamide Versus Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This ba
First Aid Beauty Firming Collagen Cream With Peptides + Niacinamide Versus Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide AP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Niacinamide
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Panthenol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Collagen
Squalane
Ceramide NP
Hexapeptide-9
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Allantoin
Saccharomyces Ferment
Caprylyl Glycol
Lauroyl Lysine
Butylene Glycol
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Collagen, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Hexapeptide-9, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Allantoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Caprylyl Glycol, Lauroyl Lysine, Butylene Glycol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide
PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Methyl Trimethicone
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Propanediol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Dextrin
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Parfum
Beta-Glucan
Cholesterol
Mannitol
Tocopherol
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Methyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dextrin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Parfum, Beta-Glucan, Cholesterol, Mannitol, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.