Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid Versus Shiseido Vital Perfection LiftDefine Radiance Serum
First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid Versus Shiseido Vital Perfection LiftDefine Radiance Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles. Th
First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid Versus Shiseido Vital Perfection LiftDefine Radiance Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around 2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Caffeine to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Glycerin
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinol
Caffeine
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tocopherol
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Atelocollagen
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Linoleic Acid
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Palmitic Acid
Oleic Acid
Stearic Acid
Triolein
Cholesterol
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lecithin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polysilicone-11
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Mica
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin)
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyethylene
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Steareth-30
Dipropylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Tin Oxide
Citric Acid
CI 77891
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Glycerin, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinol, Caffeine, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Linoleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Triolein, Cholesterol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin), Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyethylene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Steareth-30, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Tin Oxide, Citric Acid, CI 77891
Dimethicone
Behenyl Alcohol
Maltitol
Triethylhexanoin
Potassium Methoxysalicylate
Polyvinyl Alcohol
PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Batyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Parfum
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Disodium EDTA
Myristyl Myristate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Potassium Hydroxide
Sodium Citrate
2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Alcohol
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Sodium Metaphosphate
PPG-3 Dipivalate
Limonene
Hexyl Cinnamal
Linalool
Glucosamine Hcl
Citronellol
Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract
Sodium Metabisulfite
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Lamium Album Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Inositol
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
CI 77492
Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
CI 77491
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Cellulose
Nasturtium Officinale Leaf/Stem Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Maltitol, Triethylhexanoin, Potassium Methoxysalicylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Phenoxyethanol, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Batyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Parfum, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Disodium EDTA, Myristyl Myristate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, 2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Alcohol, Caffeine, Citric Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sodium Metaphosphate, PPG-3 Dipivalate, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Tocopherol, Glucosamine Hcl, Citronellol, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Lamium Album Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Inositol, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, CI 77492, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, CI 77491, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cellulose, Nasturtium Officinale Leaf/Stem Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!