Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming moisturizer is formulate

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Oxygen

Ceramide Ng

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Colloidal Oatmeal

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Cholesterol

Polyglucuronic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Stearic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Polypropylene

Polysorbate 80

Steareth-30

Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phenoxyethanol

Perfluorohexane

Chlorphenesin

Perfluoromethylcyclopentane

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Butylene Glycol

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Microcrystalline Wax

Betaine

Sorbitan Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Dimethicone

Arginine

Carbomer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Citric Acid

Beta-Glucan

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Althaea Rosea Flower Extract

Ceramide NP

Disodium EDTA

Polyquaternium-51

Apium Graveolens Extract

Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract

Lysine Hcl

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acetyl Methionine

Theanine

Proline

Palmitic Acid

Arachidic Acid

Oleic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Algin

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Natto Gum

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Betaine, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Arginine, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Citric Acid, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Apium Graveolens Extract, Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Palmitic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Algin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Natto Gum, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Polysorbate 20
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Hamamelis Virginiana Water
  5. 05Glycolic Acid
  6. 06Salicylic Acid
  7. 07Sodium Hydroxide
  8. 08Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  9. 09Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  10. 10Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
  11. 11Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  12. 12Sodium PCA
  13. 13Bisabolol
  14. 14Phenoxyethanol
  15. 15Potassium Sorbate
  16. 16Sodium Benzoate
  17. 17Benzoic Acid
  18. 18Tetrasodium EDTA
  19. 19Citric Acid
  20. 20Water, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium PCA,…
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

First Aid Beauty 5-In-1 Bouncy Mask

First Aid Beauty 5-In-1 Bouncy Mask First Aid Beauty 5-In-1 Bouncy Mask ingredients explained: Aqua (Water, Eau), Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, PEG-240/Hdi Cop…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

First Aid Beauty Face Cleanser

First Aid Beauty Face Cleanser First Aid Beauty Face Cleanser ingredients explained: Water (Aqua), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Stearyl Al…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side