Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming moisturizer is formulate
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oxygen
Ceramide Ng
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Cholesterol
Polyglucuronic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polypropylene
Polysorbate 80
Steareth-30
Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Phenoxyethanol
Perfluorohexane
Chlorphenesin
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Microcrystalline Wax
Betaine
Sorbitan Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
Arginine
Carbomer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Citric Acid
Beta-Glucan
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Ceramide NP
Disodium EDTA
Polyquaternium-51
Apium Graveolens Extract
Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract
Lysine Hcl
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Acetyl Methionine
Theanine
Proline
Palmitic Acid
Arachidic Acid
Oleic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Algin
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Natto Gum
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Betaine, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Arginine, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Citric Acid, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Apium Graveolens Extract, Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Palmitic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Algin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Natto Gum, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!