Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This brightening moisturiz
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream Versus Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oxygen
Ceramide Ng
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Cholesterol
Polyglucuronic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polypropylene
Polysorbate 80
Steareth-30
Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Phenoxyethanol
Perfluorohexane
Chlorphenesin
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Squalane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
C10-18 Triglycerides
PEG-8 Beeswax
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Tapioca Starch
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Citric Acid
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Bisabolol
Jojoba Esters
Limonene
Nylon-12
Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax
Rosa Damascena Flower Wax
Sodium Phytate
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Butylene Glycol
Alcohol Denat.
Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Benzyl Alcohol
Linalool
Dehydroacetic Acid
Water, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, C10-18 Triglycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Tapioca Starch, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Citric Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Glycerin, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Bisabolol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Nylon-12, Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax, Rosa Damascena Flower Wax, Sodium Phytate, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Chlorphenesin, Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linalool, Dehydroacetic Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!