Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulat
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Chondrus Crispus Extract and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%
Water
Stearic Acid
Glycerin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Allantoin
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium EDTA
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Ceramide NP
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%, Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Chondrus Crispus Extract
C13-15 Alkane
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Lanolin Alcohol
Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta Vulgaris Root Extract
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Sterols
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Triethyl Citrate
Tapioca Starch
Maltol
Polyquaternium-80
Sodium Phytate
Magnesium Stearate
Magnesium Aspartate
Pentylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Zinc Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Carbomer
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Water, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Squalane, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Sterols, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Triethyl Citrate, Tapioca Starch, Maltol, Polyquaternium-80, Sodium Phytate, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Aspartate, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.