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Skin science article

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Flour and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-repair moi

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Flour and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethicone

Urea

Cetyl Alcohol

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Squalane

Caprylyl Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Allantoin

Persea Gratissima Oil

N-Butyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Ceramide NP

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phenoxyethanol

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Urea, Cetyl Alcohol, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Allantoin, Persea Gratissima Oil, N-Butyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Ceramide NP, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA

Ceteareth-6 Olivate

Butylene Glycol

C13-15 Alkane

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Decyl Oleate

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Serine

Alanine

Glycine

Proline

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Arginine

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Lactate

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Adenosine

Phytic Acid

Glutamic Acid

Betaine

Pullulan

PCA

Sodium PCA

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Butylene Glycol, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Decyl Oleate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Squalane, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Adenosine, Phytic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Pullulan, PCA, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Propanediol
  4. 04Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
  5. 05Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  6. 06Polymethyl Methacrylate
  7. 07Oxygen
  8. 08Ceramide Ng
  9. 09Linoleic Acid
  10. 10Linolenic Acid
  11. 11Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  12. 12Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
  13. 13Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  14. 14Sodium Hyaluronate
  15. 15Tocopherol
  16. 16Colloidal Oatmeal
  17. 17Caprylyl Glycol
  18. 18Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
  19. 19Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
  20. 20Cholesterol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side