Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate sk
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
C10-18 Triglycerides
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Jojoba Esters
Cetyl Alcohol
Niacinamide
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Algae Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Sodium Hyaluronate
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Lactate
Butylene Glycol
PEG-75 Stearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Polyglycerin-3
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan Gum
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Trisiloxane
Trehalose
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
Silybum Marianum Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides
Sorbitol
Sodium Polyaspartate
Caffeine
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Caprylyl Glycol
Sucrose
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Oleth-10
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tromethamine
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Disodium EDTA
PEG-8
Hexylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Tocopheryl Acetate
BHT
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
CI 14700
CI 19140
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Trisiloxane, Trehalose, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Silybum Marianum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Sorbitol, Sodium Polyaspartate, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylyl Glycol, Sucrose, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Oleth-10, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 14700, CI 19140
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.
The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.
Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.
Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.
In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.
Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.
This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!