Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Rescue Mask
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Rescue Mask This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. What's inside
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream Versus Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Rescue Mask
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
C10-18 Triglycerides
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Jojoba Esters
Cetyl Alcohol
Niacinamide
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Algae Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Sodium Hyaluronate
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Lactate
Butylene Glycol
PEG-75 Stearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Polyglycerin-3
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan Gum
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Pentylene Glycol
Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder
Betaine
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Shell Powder
Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Powder
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Cetearyl Glucoside
Behenyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sclerotium Gum
Stearyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Propanediol
Sodium Polyglutamate
Caramel
Sodium Phytate
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Metabisulfite
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Limonene
Citral
Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Shell Powder, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Powder, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sclerotium Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Sodium Polyglutamate, Caramel, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hydroxide, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Citral
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!