Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Intensive Lip Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Repair Ointment
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Intensive Lip Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Repair Ointment This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Colloidal Oatmeal to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier. This barrier-repair lip moisturi
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Intensive Lip Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Repair Ointment
This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Colloidal Oatmeal to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier.
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cera Alba
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Water
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Lecithin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Aroma
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Colloidal Oatmeal
Urea
Honey
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Propolis Extract
Allantoin
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Hydroxide
EDTA
Eugenol
Cera Alba, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Water, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aroma, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Colloidal Oatmeal, Urea, Honey, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Propolis Extract, Allantoin, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hydroxide, EDTA, Eugenol
Octyldodecanol
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Panthenol
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Bisabolol
Beeswax
C20-40 Alkyl Stearate
Magnesium Stearate
Magnesium Sulfate
Octyldodecanol, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Panthenol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Water, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Bisabolol, Beeswax, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Sulfate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!