Skin science article
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Youth To The People Superfood Air Whip Moisture Cream
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Youth To The People Superfood Air Whip Moisture Cream This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barri
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Youth To The People Superfood Air Whip Moisture Cream
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Nylon-12
Acrylates Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycerin
Oleanolic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Lecithin
Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Caprylate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Laureth-8
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Nylon-12, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycerin, Oleanolic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Caprylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Laureth-8, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Pentylene Glycol
Betaine
Squalane
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Medicago Sativa Extract
Sarcosine
Spinacia Oleracea
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Copper PCA
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Menthoxypropanediol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Panthenol
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glycine Soja Oil
Limonene
Chlorphenesin
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Sarcosine, Spinacia Oleracea, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Copper PCA, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Menthoxypropanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!