Flora & Noor Rose Renewal Tri-Peptide and Ceramide Moisturizer Versus Danné Montague-King (DMK) Biogen C

Flora & Noor Rose Renewal Tri-Peptide and Ceramide Moisturizer Versus Danné Montague-King (DMK) Biogen C

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Tripeptide-29 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Hexapeptide-11 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Glycerin

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Sodium Carbomer

Tripeptide-29

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Ceramide NP

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Tea-Stearate

Sucrose Stearate

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sodium Carbomer, Tripeptide-29, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Tea-Stearate, Sucrose Stearate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Oleic Acid

Dimethyl Isosorbide

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Krameria Triandra Root Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Hexapeptide-11

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Jojoba Esters

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Chloroxylenol

CI 42090

Limonene

Water, Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Krameria Triandra Root Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hexapeptide-11, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, Chloroxylenol, CI 42090, Limonene

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.

This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.

Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).

Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.

The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a citric acid ester of glyceryl stearate.

It is an emulsifier, emollient, and a surfactant.

Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating. Common ingredients include oils and water, which do not mix naturally. Emulsifiers have properties that help keep ingredients such as these together.

Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.

Surfactants help gather oils, dirt, and other pollutants from the skin. This helps them to be easily rinsed away.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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