Skin science article
frank body Rewind Retinol Serum Versus frank body Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
frank body Rewind Retinol Serum Versus frank body Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Pisum Sativum Peptide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating serum is formulated around
frank body Rewind Retinol Serum Versus frank body Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Pisum Sativum Peptide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Isononyl Isononanoate
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Caprylate
Glycine Soja Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
Pisum Sativum Peptide
Retinol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Bisabolol
Sodium Citrate
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Stearate
Polyisobutene
Magnesium Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Citric Acid
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Water, Isononyl Isononanoate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycine Soja Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyisobutene, Magnesium Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Propanediol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Carrageenan
Tocopherol
Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Parfum
Benzyl Alcohol
Dehydroacetic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Tocopherol, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Glycerin, Parfum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.