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Skin science article

Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This brightening eye m

Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Caffeine to fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isostearyl Isostearate

Propanediol

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Pentylene Glycol

C10-18 Triglycerides

Boron Nitride

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglycerin-3

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Tocopherol

Fructose

Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Carbomer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Citrate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Adenosine

Biosaccharide Gum-2

Sodium Metabisulfite

Poloxamer 338

Silica

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chlorphenesin

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Limonene

Citral

Water, Glycerin, Isostearyl Isostearate, Propanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Boron Nitride, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglycerin-3, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Fructose, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Sodium Metabisulfite, Poloxamer 338, Silica, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Citral

Diisostearyl Malate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Phytosterols

3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Bisabolol

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Physalis Angulata Extract

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Hexamidine Diisethionate

Sodium Phytate

Melia Azadirachta Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Hydroxide

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Butylene Glycol

Water, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phytosterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tocopherol, Hexamidine Diisethionate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
  4. 04Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
  5. 05Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
  6. 06One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
  7. 07While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
  8. 08The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% be…
  9. 09Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
  10. 10Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at…
  11. 11Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
  12. 12Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
  13. 13Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
  14. 14It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
  15. 15Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
  16. 16Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  17. 17This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  18. 18On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  19. 19One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  20. 20Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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