Skin science article
Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry
Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This brightening eye m
Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Caffeine to fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Isostearyl Isostearate
Propanediol
Squalane
Cetyl Alcohol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Pentylene Glycol
C10-18 Triglycerides
Boron Nitride
Glyceryl Stearate
Polyglycerin-3
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Tocopherol
Fructose
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Behenyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Carbomer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Citrate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Adenosine
Biosaccharide Gum-2
Sodium Metabisulfite
Poloxamer 338
Silica
Tetrasodium EDTA
Chlorphenesin
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Limonene
Citral
Water, Glycerin, Isostearyl Isostearate, Propanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Boron Nitride, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglycerin-3, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Fructose, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Sodium Metabisulfite, Poloxamer 338, Silica, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Citral
Diisostearyl Malate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Phytosterols
3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract
Caffeine
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Linoleic Acid
Phospholipids
Bisabolol
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Physalis Angulata Extract
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Hexamidine Diisethionate
Sodium Phytate
Melia Azadirachta Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Water, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phytosterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tocopherol, Hexamidine Diisethionate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!