Skin science article
Freshly Cosmetics Omega Rich Well-Ageing Cream Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
Freshly Cosmetics Omega Rich Well-Ageing Cream Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin
Freshly Cosmetics Omega Rich Well-Ageing Cream Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Water
Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate
Glycerin
Propanediol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
C13-15 Alkane
Cetyl Alcohol
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Isoamyl Laurate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Capparis Spinosa Bud Extract
Morus Nigra Leaf Extract
Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Glycogen
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
Hectorite
Parfum
Benzyl Alcohol
Arginine
Levulinic Acid
Sodium Gluconate
Succinoglycan
Malic Acid
Sodium Levulinate
Isoamyl Cocoate
Xanthan Gum
P-Anisic Acid
Dehydroacetic Acid
Glycine Soja Oil
Tocopherol
Beta-Sitosterol
Squalene
Sea Salt
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Water, Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, C13-15 Alkane, Cetyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Capparis Spinosa Bud Extract, Morus Nigra Leaf Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Glycogen, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Hectorite, Parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, Arginine, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Succinoglycan, Malic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Isoamyl Cocoate, Xanthan Gum, P-Anisic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Sea Salt
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Alcohol Denat.
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Niacinamide
PEG-100 Stearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Octyldodecanol
Cyclodextrin
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Pisum Sativum Extract
Adenosine
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Cera Alba
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Butter
Cetearyl Glucoside
Citric Acid
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
Geraniol
Limonene
Chlorphenesin
Dipropylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cera Alba, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!