Skin science article
FreshO2 The Everyday Lip Balm Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
FreshO2 The Everyday Lip Balm Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This smoothing
FreshO2 The Everyday Lip Balm Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Lactic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Diisostearyl Malate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Petrolatum
Stearyl Heptanoate
Ozokerite
Polyethylene
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax
Paraffin
Stearyl Caprylate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Octyldodecanol
Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
CI 15850
CI 77492
CI 77491
CI 77499
CI 42090
Diisostearyl Malate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Petrolatum, Stearyl Heptanoate, Ozokerite, Polyethylene, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax, Paraffin, Stearyl Caprylate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Octyldodecanol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, CI 15850, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 42090
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Polyphenylsilsesquioxane
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Synthetic Wax
Silica Silylate
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Microcrystalline Wax
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Isostearyl Alcohol
Water
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Aroma
Tribehenin
Sorbitan Isostearate
Lactic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Linalool
Iron Oxides
CI 77891
CI 19140
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polyphenylsilsesquioxane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Silica Silylate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Microcrystalline Wax, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Isostearyl Alcohol, Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Aroma, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a synthetic emollient that works as a lanolin substitute.
This ingredient is a great vegan option for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients.
It mostly stays on the surface of skin where it helps hydrate due to its large molecular size and low water solubility.
Due to it being derived from fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia or fungal acne safe.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.
The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.
Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.
Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.
In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.
Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.
This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
This ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Stearalkonium Hectorite is a clay-derived ingredient used to thicken a product and help create a gel-like texture.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tridecyl Trimellitate is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioning properties. It also acts as a texture enhancer and helps products spread easily without feeling greasy.
As an emollient, it forms a light layer on the skin that keeps moisture in and improves water resistance. This is why you'll often find this ingredient in eye creams and other rich treatments.
This ingredient is seen as the elegant alternative to mineral oil.
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer is a synthetic film-forming agent. It has both water and oil loving properties, allowing it to create a flexible, even film on the skin.
This ingredient helps enhance texture, smoothness, and wear resistance in makeup products while reducing tackiness.