Skin science article
fur Ingrown Eliminator Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Ingrown Hair Pads with BHA & AHA
fur Ingrown Eliminator Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Ingrown Hair Pads with BHA & AHA This smoothing serum is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Extract and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits
fur Ingrown Eliminator Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Ingrown Hair Pads with BHA & AHA
This smoothing serum is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Extract and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Lactic Acid
Phytic Acid
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
Galactoarabinan
Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Saccharide Isomerate
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Linalool
Limonene
Geraniol
Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactic Acid, Phytic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Galactoarabinan, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
Polysorbate 20
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Glycolic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Sodium PCA
Bisabolol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Benzoic Acid
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium PCA, Bisabolol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.
In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.
The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.
This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.
Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.
Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.
Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).
The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!