Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum Versus Regimen Lab Azelaic Advanced

Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum Versus Regimen Lab Azelaic Advanced This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to calm redness and balance excess oil. This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl

Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum Versus Regimen Lab Azelaic Advanced

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to calm redness and balance excess oil.

This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Propanediol

Glycerin

Methyl Gluceth-20

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Azelaic Acid

Ethoxydiglycol

Sophora Japonica Root Extract

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Azelamide Mea

Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine

Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone

Naringenin

Bisabolol

Glucosylrutin

Swertia Chirata Extract

Rutin

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Water, Azelaic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Sophora Japonica Root Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Azelamide Mea, Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine, Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone, Naringenin, Bisabolol, Glucosylrutin, Swertia Chirata Extract, Rutin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) comes from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine.

This ingredient has similar properties to azelaic acid; it can help reduce sebum production and soothe skin. PAD also inhibits tyrosinase activity to help brighten skin. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production.

A study from 2023 found 5% PAD combined with nicotinamide (a form of niacin) effectively reduced melanin production after 6 weeks.

Several studies from the 2010's also show PAD to be effective in alleviating symptoms of Rosacea.

Though this ingredient is considered a gentle active, higher amounts may result in irritation.

Unlike azelaic acid, this ingredient is water-soluble. This property makes it easier to formulate into skincare products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  4. 04Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  5. 05Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  6. 06Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  7. 07This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  8. 08Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  9. 09Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  10. 10Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  11. 11It’s often used to:
  12. 12Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  13. 13Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  14. 14So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  15. 15You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  16. 16Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
  17. 17On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
  18. 18Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side