Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus The INKEY List C-50 Blemish Night Treatment

Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus The INKEY List C-50 Blemish Night Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This acne treatment is formu

Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus The INKEY List C-50 Blemish Night Treatment

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This acne treatment is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ascorbic Acid

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Butylene Glycol

PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin

Ferulic Acid

Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Ferulic Acid, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide

Propanediol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Salicylic Acid

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Glycerin

Madecassoside

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Lecithin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Propanediol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Salicylic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Madecassoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Lecithin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Gluconolactone 3%
  4. 04Niacinamide 3%
  5. 05Pentylene Glycol
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  8. 08Potassium Sorbate
  9. 09Sodium Benzoate
  10. 10PPG-26-Buteth-26
  11. 11PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
  12. 121,2-Hexanediol
  13. 13Caprylyl Glycol
  14. 14Ethylhexylglycerin
  15. 15Citric Acid
  16. 16Sodium Hydroxide
  17. 17Water, Propanediol, Gluconolactone 3%, Niacinamide 3%, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin…
  18. 18Niacinamide
  19. 19Lactic Acid
  20. 20Gluconolactone
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream

The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcoho…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side