Geek & Gorgeous Power Peptides Serum Versus Numbuzin No.9 NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Full Face Mask

Geek & Gorgeous Power Peptides Serum Versus Numbuzin No.9 NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Full Face Mask

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dicaprylyl Ether

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Tetrapeptide-21

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Saccharide Isomerate

Allantoin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Tapioca Starch

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tapioca Starch, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Isopentyldiol

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Arginine

Trehalose

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Sodium Polyacrylate

Disodium EDTA

Propanediol

Polylactic Acid

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Thioctic Acid

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Adenosine Triphosphate

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Resveratrol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Pullulan

Ubiquinone

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Astaxanthin

Pisum Sativum Peptide

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1

Alanine

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-12

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-7

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Octapeptide-2

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Pentapeptide-13

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Tetrapeptide-44

Tetrapeptide-30

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Tripeptide-32

Tripeptide-29

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Dextran

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Soluble Collagen

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Glucose

Mannose

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Collagen

Elastin

Glutathione

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Sr-Oligopeptide-1

R-Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-62

Methylpropanediol

Sorbitan Stearate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Isopentyldiol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Carbomer, Arginine, Panthenol, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Polylactic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Thioctic Acid, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Adenosine Triphosphate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Resveratrol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Pullulan, Ubiquinone, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Astaxanthin, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1, Alanine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-12, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, Octapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-13, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Tetrapeptide-44, Tetrapeptide-30, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-32, Tripeptide-29, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Dextran, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Soluble Collagen, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Glucose, Mannose, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Collagen, Elastin, Glutathione, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Sr-Oligopeptide-1, R-Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-62, Methylpropanediol, Sorbitan Stearate, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.

Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.

First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.

What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?

This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.

Matrikines play a role in:

Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.

This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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