Skin science article
Glad2Glow Berry Peptide Eye Cream Versus JoyLab Hi! Bright Eye Gel Crème
Glad2Glow Berry Peptide Eye Cream Versus JoyLab Hi! Bright Eye Gel Crème This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacina
Glad2Glow Berry Peptide Eye Cream Versus JoyLab Hi! Bright Eye Gel Crème
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Methylpropanediol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Maris Aqua
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetyl Alcohol
Octyldodecanol
Glyceryl Stearate
Niacinamide
Cyclohexasiloxane
Hydroxyacetophenone
1,2-Hexanediol
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
PEG-75 Stearate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Steareth-20
Ceteth-20
Butylene Glycol
Bisabolol
Pentylene Glycol
Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate
Gentiana Scabra Root Extract
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Caffeine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Tocopherol
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide Ng
Ceramide As
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Smithsonite Extract
Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Ceramide NP
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Trehalose
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract
Erythritol
Xanthan Gum
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Disodium EDTA
Cyclodextrin
Polysorbate 20
Carbomer
Arginine
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Methylpropanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Maris Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-75 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Steareth-20, Ceteth-20, Butylene Glycol, Bisabolol, Pentylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate, Gentiana Scabra Root Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tocopherol, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide As, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Smithsonite Extract, Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ceramide NP, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Trehalose, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract, Erythritol, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium EDTA, Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Arginine
Squalane
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Panthenol
PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Sodium Polyacrylate
Adenosine
Allantoin
Citrus Junos Peel Oil
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrus Junos Peel Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!