Skin science article
Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser
Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. What's in
Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser
This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.
This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Propanediol
Poloxamer 184
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Xylitylglucoside
Betaine
Allantoin
Glycerin
Panthenol
Symphytum Officinale Root Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Anhydroxylitol
Polysorbate 80
Xylitol
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Oleate
Benzoic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Propanediol, Poloxamer 184, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Xylitylglucoside, Betaine, Allantoin, Glycerin, Panthenol, Symphytum Officinale Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Anhydroxylitol, Polysorbate 80, Xylitol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydroxyacetophenone
Oryza Sativa
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Xanthan Gum
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Inulin
Polyquaternium-10
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyacetophenone, Oryza Sativa, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Inulin, Polyquaternium-10, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!