Skin science article
Glow Recipe Banana Soufflé Moisture Cream Versus Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Glow Recipe Banana Soufflé Moisture Cream Versus Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum This calming moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin. This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodiu
Glow Recipe Banana Soufflé Moisture Cream Versus Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Coconut Alkanes
Squalane
Propanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Musa Sapientum Water
Magnesium PCA
Centella Asiatica Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Bisabolol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Diheptyl Succinate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Aroma
Water, Glycerin, Coconut Alkanes, Squalane, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Musa Sapientum Water, Magnesium PCA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Diheptyl Succinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Aroma
Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract
Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1
Pantothenic Acid
Phospholipids
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Raphanus Sativus Root Extract
Chlorphenesin
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Potassium Sorbate
Propylene Glycol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Hydroxyacetophenone
Carrageenan
Sodium Glycolate
Sodium Formate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1, Pantothenic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Propylene Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Glycolate, Sodium Formate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.