Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract

Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1

Pantothenic Acid

Phospholipids

Sodium Hydroxide

Spirulina Platensis Extract

Raphanus Sativus Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Potassium Sorbate

Propylene Glycol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Carrageenan

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Glycolate

Sodium Formate

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1, Pantothenic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Propylene Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Glycolate, Sodium Formate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

C9-12 Alkane

Niacinamide

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Maris Aqua

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Sodium PCA

Saccharide Isomerate

Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Magnesium Silicate

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Citrate

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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