Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Glymed Plus Peptide Serum Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

Glymed Plus Peptide Serum Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+ This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa

Glymed Plus Peptide Serum Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Acetyl Sh-Heptapeptide-1

Butylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Copper Tripeptide-1

Dimethyl Mea

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycereth-26

Glycerin

Glycine

Hexylene Glycol

Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Lecithin

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Panthenol

Pentylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Polysorbate 20

Propanediol

Rosa Centifolia Flower Water

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Water

Xanthan Gum

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Sh-Heptapeptide-1, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dimethyl Mea, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lecithin, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Water, Xanthan Gum, Phenethyl Alcohol

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Methyl Gluceth-20

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Diglycerin

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Pullulan

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Maltodextrin

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citric Acid

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Diglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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