Skin science article
Good Light Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
Good Light Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water This hydrating toner is formulated around Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming essence is formulated around
Good Light Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
This hydrating toner is formulated around Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Ceramide NP
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Niacinamide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Urea
Allantoin
Tocopherol
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Rose Flower Oil
Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract
Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Propanediol
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Canola Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Sodium Lactate
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Carbomer
Pentylene Glycol
Xylitylglucoside
Arginine
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Myrtus Communis Oil
Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Jasminum Officinale Oil
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Urea, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract, Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Canola Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Lactate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Carbomer, Pentylene Glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Arginine, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Myrtus Communis Oil, Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Jasminum Officinale Oil, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Glucoside
Xanthan Gum
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Adenosine
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Glucose
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Panax Ginseng Root Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glucose, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!