Skin science article
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum Versus Bliss Pro Multi-Peptide Youth Face Serum
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum Versus Bliss Pro Multi-Peptide Youth Face Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum Versus Bliss Pro Multi-Peptide Youth Face Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
1,2-Hexanediol
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Glycine
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Sodium Hyaluronate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tocopherol
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Glycine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol
Polysilicone-11
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Hexapeptide-9
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Plankton Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Arginine Ferulate
Raspberry Ketone
Cetearyl Olivate
Ubiquinone
Diglycerin
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Sorbitan Olivate
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Laureth-12
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Plankton Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arginine Ferulate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Raspberry Ketone, Cetearyl Olivate, Ubiquinone, Diglycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-12, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!