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Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This calming treatment is formulated

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Citrus Tangerina Extract

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Dipropylene Glycol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycereth-26

Arbutin

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Panthenol

Choleth-24

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Adenosine

Sodium Phytate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Glycerin

Madecassoside

Maltodextrin

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Tocopherol

Asiaticoside

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Limonene

Linalool

Citrus Tangerina Extract, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycereth-26, Arbutin, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Panthenol, Choleth-24, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycerin, Madecassoside, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Tocopherol, Asiaticoside, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Limonene, Linalool

Azelaic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Bisabolol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Sclerotium Gum

Propanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  10. 10Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  11. 11Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  12. 12Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  13. 13Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  14. 14It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  15. 15Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  16. 16A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  17. 17Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
  18. 18You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
  19. 19The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
  20. 20Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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