Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening serum is formula

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Citrus Tangerina Extract

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Dipropylene Glycol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycereth-26

Arbutin

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Panthenol

Choleth-24

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Adenosine

Sodium Phytate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Glycerin

Madecassoside

Maltodextrin

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Tocopherol

Asiaticoside

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Limonene

Linalool

Citrus Tangerina Extract, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycereth-26, Arbutin, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Panthenol, Choleth-24, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycerin, Madecassoside, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Tocopherol, Asiaticoside, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Limonene, Linalool

Sodium Hydroxide

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
  2. 02Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
  3. 03Octocrylene 7%
  4. 04Water
  5. 05Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Dimethicone
  8. 08Diisopropyl Sebacate
  9. 09Silica
  10. 10Polymethyl Methacrylate
  11. 11Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
  12. 12Sucrose Tristearate
  13. 13Dimethiconol
  14. 14Pentylene Glycol
  15. 15Polysorbate 61
  16. 16Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  17. 17Phenoxyethanol
  18. 18Caprylyl Glycol
  19. 19Tocopheryl Acetate
  20. 20Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side