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Skin science article

Grace & Stella Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Hylamide Sensitive Fix Booster

Grace & Stella Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Hylamide Sensitive Fix Booster This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum is formulated around

Grace & Stella Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Hylamide Sensitive Fix Booster

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming serum is formulated around Saccharide Isomerate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Panthenol

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Propanediol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Citric Acid

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin

Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Sorbate

Saccharide Isomerate

Butylene Glycol

Mirabilis Jalapa Extract

Curculigo Orchioides Root Extract

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Lactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract

Phospholipids

Sodium Citrate

Polysorbate 20

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Water, Saccharide Isomerate, Butylene Glycol, Mirabilis Jalapa Extract, Curculigo Orchioides Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Lactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract, Phospholipids, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Polysorbate 20, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.

A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.

A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.

More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  7. 07Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  8. 08It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  9. 09Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  10. 10A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  11. 11Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
  12. 12This ingredient helps:
  13. 13Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
  14. 14As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
  15. 15Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
  16. 16Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
  17. 17It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
  18. 18Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
  19. 19Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
  20. 20Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

PAPA RECIPE Hyaluronic Acid Serum

PAPA RECIPE Hyaluronic Acid Serum PAPA RECIPE Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01How to Apply Face Serums

Skincare rules can get confusing, but when it comes to application the general rule of thumb is to pay attention to the product’s consistency. “Apply the lightest, thinnest product first and the heaviest, and more dense products last, since thinner products can’t penetrate thicker products,”says Dr. Lewis. After cleansing the face and following up with a toner, let the skin dry before using a serum. You can layer different serums on top of each other or opt for a product that has a precise mix of multiple hero ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Source · www.skincare.com
02When and How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Routine

Products with hyaluronic acid can be used in the morning or at night (or both!). Applying the hydrating ingredient at night will restore your skin’s resilience while you sleep, and applying it in the morning will leave your skin feeling plump, hydrated and ready for makeup. Hyaluronic acid is great at providing topical hydration when it’s introduced into a balanced skincare routine. According to Dr. King, it’s important to pair your hyaluronic acid products with an emollient or occlusive moisturizer to lock in hydration.

Source · www.skincare.com