Skin science article
Grace & Stella Restoring Purple Eye Masks Versus Biodance Collagen Peptide Eye Patches
Grace & Stella Restoring Purple Eye Masks Versus Biodance Collagen Peptide Eye Patches This hydrating eye mask is formulated around Allantoin and Retinyl Palmitate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around C
Grace & Stella Restoring Purple Eye Masks Versus Biodance Collagen Peptide Eye Patches
This hydrating eye mask is formulated around Allantoin and Retinyl Palmitate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around Collagen Water and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Chondrus Crispus Powder
Glucomannan
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Potassium Chloride
Hydroxyacetophenone
Allantoin
Retinyl Palmitate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tin Oxide
Tocopherol
Ceteareth-20
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Ceramide NP
Polysorbate 20
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77499
CI 77510
Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Glucomannan, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Potassium Chloride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tin Oxide, Tocopherol, Ceteareth-20, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ceramide NP, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 77510
Collagen Water
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum
Betaine
Chondrus Crispus
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Calcium Chloride
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Propanediol
Trehalose
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate
Sucrose
Cellulose Gum
Adenosine
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Caffeine
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Collagen Extract
Elastin
Glycosaminoglycans
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Carnosine
Copper Tripeptide-1
Nonapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Water, Glycerin, Collagen Water, Niacinamide, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Chondrus Crispus, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Calcium Chloride, Allantoin, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Potassium Chloride, Glucomannan, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Propanediol, Trehalose, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Sucrose, Cellulose Gum, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77891, Caffeine, CI 77491, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tin Oxide, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Tocopherol, Collagen Extract, Elastin, Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Chondrus Crispus Powder is an exfoliant.
Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glucomannan is a fiber created from the Konjac plant. It is an emulsifier and thickener.
The high polysaccharide content makes it great at adjusting the texture of products. (Kind of like starch).
Polysaccharides also help our skin stay hydrated.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
We don't have a description for Potassium Chloride yet.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tin Oxide is an inorganic oxide used to add opacity and volume to a product. In nature, it is already found in mineral form. The main ore of tin is an opaque and shiny mineral called casseterite.
Tin Oxide helps remove translucency in a product, or make it more opaque. Besides adding opacity, tin oxide is used for bulking to add volume.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!