Skin science article
Guardian Face And Body UV Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
Guardian Face And Body UV Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks
Guardian Face And Body UV Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Propylene Glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Ceteareth-20
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Polyester-7
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Sorbitan Stearate
Titanium Dioxide
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Polysorbate 80
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Phenoxyethanol
Decyl Glucoside
Triethanolamine
Silica
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Chlorphenesin
Niacinamide
Xanthan Gum
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate
Disodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sorbitan Oleate
Glycerin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Ceteareth-20, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyester-7, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sorbitan Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Polysorbate 80, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Decyl Glucoside, Triethanolamine, Silica, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Niacinamide, Xanthan Gum, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sorbitan Oleate, Glycerin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Decyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.
Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.
Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.
Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).
Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.
One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is also known as Tinosorb M or Bisoctrizole and is a bit of an overachiever in the sunscreen world.
It's a hybrid broad-spectrum filter that covers UVA and UVB (~280-400nm) with peak absorption around 305nm for UVB or 360nm for UVA (and a tiny bit in blue-light territory as well).
One of its best party tricks is photostability; it doesn't break down with repeated sun exposure and doesn't generate free radicals in the process either. You'll also see it paired with wobbly filters like avobenzone because it helps stabilize them.
The safety profile is assuring as well. Because it's a large molecule, it doesn't easily absorb into skin and rarely causes irritation.
It's approved in the EU, Asia, and Australia up to 10% and most formulas land somewhere in the 2-10% range.
You won't find it as a sunscreen active in the US, but it can make an appearance as a formula-protecting UV-absorber.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.