Skin science article
Hada Labo H.A. Supreme Vita Brightening Serum Versus APRILSKIN Collagen Peptide Plumping Serum
Hada Labo H.A. Supreme Vita Brightening Serum Versus APRILSKIN Collagen Peptide Plumping Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging se
Hada Labo H.A. Supreme Vita Brightening Serum Versus APRILSKIN Collagen Peptide Plumping Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Methyl Gluceth-20
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Hydroxyacetophenone
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract
Hydrolyzed Malt Extract
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Cellulose Gum
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Citrus Junos Seed Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Tocopherol
Thiamine Hcl
Riboflavin
Retinyl Palmitate
Pantothenic Acid
Niacin
Folic Acid
Carnitine Hcl
Biotin
Ascorbic Acid
Saccharide Isomerate
Pancratium Maritimum Extract
Alaria Esculenta Extract
Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Tocopherol, Thiamine Hcl, Riboflavin, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin, Folic Acid, Carnitine Hcl, Biotin, Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract
Soluble Collagen
Glycereth-26
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
C12-14 Pareth-12
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Polyglycerin-3
Methyl Gluceth-10
Tromethamine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Adenosine
Dextrin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Squalane
Caprylyl Glycol
Sorbitan Laurate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Diphenyl Dimethicone
Triethylhexanoin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Soluble Collagen, Water, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, C12-14 Pareth-12, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Polyglycerin-3, Methyl Gluceth-10, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Dextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Laurate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate is a positively charged version of hyaluronic acid.
This small change does a lot in a formula:
Regular hyaluronic acid carries a negative charge and so does the surface of your skin. This means the two repel each other and hyaluronic acid can be washed away easily. The positive charge here does the opposite: it makes the ingredient cling to your skin (also called "substantivity") so it keeps hydrating even in rinse-off products where it lays down a light, moisture-holding film.
The research backs this up too; a 2025 clinical study on a shower gel containing 0.1% positively charged hyaluronic acid increased skin hydration by 6.6% versus the baseline and 11.1% versus the placebo. This was measured 6 hours after 1 minute of contact and rinse, and on volunteers with very dry skin.
The same team's lab work showed it adhered to skin far better than unmodified hyaluronic acid (+107% vs. low molecular weight, +23% versus high molecular weight). They also found it increased two proteins tied to skin hydration, aquaporin-3 by 16% and filaggrin by 35%.
A separate 2024 study reached a similar conclusion and credited the hydrating benefits to its film-forming properties.
Both studies used the ingredient at 0.1% which also matches how much it usually shows up in products (at fractions of a percent).
One honesty note worth keeping in mind: the published research comes from the company that manufactures the ingredient so independent data would strengthen the picture. However, the results are consistent and the mechanism makes sense.
As a Hyaluronic Acid derivative, it has a well-tolerated profile and suits most skin types.
Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!