Skin science article
Hada Labo Tokyo Anti-Aging Super Hydrator Lotion Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum
Hada Labo Tokyo Anti-Aging Super Hydrator Lotion Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Retinyl Palmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. T
Hada Labo Tokyo Anti-Aging Super Hydrator Lotion Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Retinyl Palmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Pentapeptide-18 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate
Phenoxyethanol
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Triethylhexanoin
Propanediol
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Tocopherol
BHT
Disodium EDTA
Retinyl Palmitate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Zea Mays Oil
Thioctic Acid
Beta-Carotene
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Propanediol, PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocopherol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Zea Mays Oil, Thioctic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Squalane
Saccharomyces Lysate
Polysilicone-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Collagen
Phytosterols
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citric Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Trihydroxystearin
Lauroyl Lysine
Glucomannan
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Mica
Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Saccharomyces Lysate, Polysilicone-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Phytosterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Trihydroxystearin, Lauroyl Lysine, Glucomannan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!