Skin science article
Hanskin Collagen Peptide Eye Cream Versus Sidmool Small Molecule Collagen Eye Serum
Hanskin Collagen Peptide Eye Cream Versus Sidmool Small Molecule Collagen Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Co
Hanskin Collagen Peptide Eye Cream Versus Sidmool Small Molecule Collagen Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Collagen Extract
Vinyldimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Niacinamide
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hyaluronic Acid
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-29
Oligopeptide-32
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Octapeptide-7
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Pentapeptide-18
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Squalane
Sodium Polyacrylate
Pentylene Glycol
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract
Panthenol
Water
Octyldodecanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
1,2-Hexanediol
Ceramide NP
Ethylhexylglycerin
Arginine
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Allantoin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Propanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Disodium EDTA
Collagen Extract, Vinyldimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Octapeptide-7, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Water, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA
Dipropylene Glycol
Caffeoyl Sh-Decapeptide-9
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Trehalose
Carbomer
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Collagen Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeoyl Sh-Decapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-29, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Trehalose, Adenosine, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Collagen extract is derived from parts of animals. It has skin conditioning properties and is mostly comprised of glycine, proline, and hydroxypoline. These are amino acids.
While our skin does have collagen, this ingredient is not used by the skin for anti-aging. Applying collagen topically has not been linked to helping with collagen loss in skin. All the benefits of collagen are related to hydration.
This ingredient will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Oligopeptide-29 is an antioxidant and is a peptide.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sh-Decapeptide-7 is an antioxidant and is a peptide.
Sh-Octapeptide-4 is an antioxidant and is a peptide.
Sh-Oligopeptide-9 is a peptide.
Sh-Pentapeptide-19 is a peptide.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!