Skin science article
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging eye moisturize
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol
C14-22 Alcohols
Bakuchiol
Stearyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Cetyl Palmitate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Palmitate
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyisobutene
Myristyl Alcohol
Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Usnea Barbata Extract
Pulsatilla Koreana Extract
Aspergillus Ferment
Ethylhexylglycerin
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Cyclodextrin
Adenosine
Lauryl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Disodium EDTA
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Glucose
Wheat Amino Acids
Natto Gum
Pentylene Glycol
Madecassoside
Water, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, C14-22 Alcohols, Bakuchiol, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Cetyl Palmitate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyisobutene, Myristyl Alcohol, Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Cyclodextrin, Adenosine, Lauryl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Glucose, Wheat Amino Acids, Natto Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Madecassoside
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Cetearyl Olivate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Propanediol
Glycogen
Sodium Gluconate
Retinol
Polysorbate 20
Dehydroacetic Acid
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Ethyl Ferulate
Humulus Lupulus Extract
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Propanediol, Glycogen, Sodium Gluconate, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Citric Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Ferulate, Humulus Lupulus Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!