Skin science article
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum Versus Paula's Choice Resist Triple Active Total Repair Serum
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum Versus Paula's Choice Resist Triple Active Total Repair Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Oryza Sativa Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum Versus Paula's Choice Resist Triple Active Total Repair Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Oryza Sativa Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinyl Propionate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Glycerin
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Bakuchiol
C14-22 Alcohols
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Oryza Sativa Extract
Arginine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract
Disodium EDTA
Retinol 0.08%
Aspergillus Ferment
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Ceramide NP
Dipropylene Glycol
Stearyl Alcohol
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Glucose
Hydroxyacetophenone
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cyclodextrin
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bakuchiol, C14-22 Alcohols, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Oryza Sativa Extract, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract, Disodium EDTA, Retinol 0.08%, Aspergillus Ferment, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Ceramide NP, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glucose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cyclodextrin
Isopropyl Myristate
Niacinamide
Hydroxystearic Acid
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Tocotrienols
Retinyl Propionate
Hexylresorcinol
Cetyl Alcohol
Castanea Sativa Leaf Extract
Ceramide AP
Sodium Hydroxide
Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Phytate
BHT
Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydroxystearic Acid, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Tocotrienols, Retinyl Propionate, Hexylresorcinol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Castanea Sativa Leaf Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dilauryl Thiodipropionate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Phytate, BHT
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!