Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Pure Mineral Relief Daily Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Pure Mineral Relief Daily Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Pure Mineral Relief Daily Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 40.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Zinc Oxide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Propanediol

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Caprylyl Methicone

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Niacinamide

Methyl Trimethicone

Isododecane

Stellaria Media Extract

Helianthus Annuus Flower Extract

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Bellis Perennis Flower Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Magnesium Sulfate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Glyceryl Caprylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Glycerin

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Phenethyl Alcohol

Sodium Chloride

Disodium Phosphate

Potassium Chloride

Potassium Phosphate

Water, Zinc Oxide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Caprylyl Methicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Methyl Trimethicone, Isododecane, Stellaria Media Extract, Helianthus Annuus Flower Extract, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Magnesium Sulfate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Chloride, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Phosphate

Isopropyl Myristate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

CI 77492

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

Alcohol Denat.

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Silica

CI 77491

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Undecane

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Tridecane

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Polyglycerin-6

Ascorbyl Palmitate

CI 77499

Zinc Oxide, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, CI 77492, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Alcohol Denat., Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Silica, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, CI 77491, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Undecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tridecane, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglycerin-6, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, CI 77499

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

This ingredient comes as a powder made up of small, porous, microbeads. It is used to add a silky feel to products and also helps absorb oil.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Zinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.

On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.

Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.

That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).

The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.

So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.

Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.

That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.

It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.

This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.

It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.

Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.

The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.

Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.

The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.

Another thing worth understanding about formulation:

Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.

A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.

Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).

Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.

As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.

This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.

The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.

Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".

You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.

So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.

The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.

Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.

A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.

The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.

So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.

If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
  4. 04It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
  5. 05Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
  6. 06This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
  7. 07Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
  8. 08Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
  9. 09Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
  10. 10Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  11. 11The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  12. 12Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  13. 13Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  14. 14Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  15. 15Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  16. 16Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  17. 17This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  18. 18Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  19. 19Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  20. 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side