Skin science article
Helena Rubinstein Replasty Age Recovery Night Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
Helena Rubinstein Replasty Age Recovery Night Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
Helena Rubinstein Replasty Age Recovery Night Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Isohexadecane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Glycerin
Synthetic Wax
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Magnesium Sulfate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Disodium EDTA
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77163
Parfum
Water, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Isohexadecane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Synthetic Wax, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Sulfate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77163, Parfum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caffeine
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cetearyl Olivate
Butylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Teprenone
Phospholipids
Hyaluronic Acid
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Sphingolipids
Astaxanthin
Bisabolol
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Honey
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ceramide NP
Phenyl T-Butylnitrone
Tocopherol
Glutathione
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Ergothioneine
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Sorbitan Olivate
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Dextran
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
CI 77891
Ethylhexylglycerin
Maltodextrin
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Tributyl Citrate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Glycolate
Polysorbate 20
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!