Skin science article
Her Hyness Power Glow Pore Refine Cream Versus Her Hyness Bio-Peptide Advanced Youth+Glow Cream
Her Hyness Power Glow Pore Refine Cream Versus Her Hyness Bio-Peptide Advanced Youth+Glow Cream This pore-care moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine the look of pores and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging
Her Hyness Power Glow Pore Refine Cream Versus Her Hyness Bio-Peptide Advanced Youth+Glow Cream
This pore-care moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine the look of pores and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Dibutyl Adipate
Betaine
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Squalane
Sodium Polyacrylate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate
Butylene Glycol
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Citrus Sinensis Fruit Water
Oryza Sativa Extract
Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Maltodextrin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hexylresorcinol
Ethyl Linoleate
Tranexamic Acid
10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid
Sebacic Acid
1,10-Decanediol
Arbutin
Acetyl Tyrosine
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Glutathione
Glycogen
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
Allantoin
Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer
Isohexadecane
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Lecithin
Royal Jelly
Water, Niacinamide, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Betaine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Water, Oryza Sativa Extract, Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Tranexamic Acid, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10-Decanediol, Arbutin, Acetyl Tyrosine, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Glutathione, Glycogen, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Allantoin, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Royal Jelly
Isododecane
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Tripeptide-1
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-32
Dextran
Acetyl Glutamine
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Ectoin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Phenylpropanol
Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Water, Isododecane, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Niacinamide, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-32, Dextran, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Squalane, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Ectoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Royal Jelly, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Royal Jelly Extract is a secretion made by worker honeybees. This secretion is white and described as creamy.
This compound has antibacterial, anti-aging, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. The antibacterial property makes Royal Jelly helpful in wound-healing.
Antioxidants help protect our skin against free radical molecules. These molecules may damage our skin's DNA. Two antioxidant compounds found in royal jelly are ferulic acid and quercetin.
Compounds found in royal jelly include: sulfur, calcium, zinc, iron, and B vitamins.
Royal Jelly is derived from honeybees. This means it is not vegan.
Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!