Skin science article
Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum
Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum This smoothing serum is formulated around Bakuchiol to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. This calming serum is formulated aroun
Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum
This smoothing serum is formulated around Bakuchiol to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.
This calming serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Piroctone Olamine
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Bakuchiol
Pisum Sativum Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Lentinus Edodes Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Gluconate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Hydroxyacetophenone
Lecithin
Coco-Caprylate
Tribehenin
Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Piroctone Olamine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol, Pisum Sativum Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate, Tribehenin, Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum
Hyaluronic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Sea Whip Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Cholesterol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Phytosphingosine
Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Ubiquinone
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Magnesium Aspartate
Potassium Aspartate
Sarcosine
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Sea Whip Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Cholesterol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Aspartate, Potassium Aspartate, Sarcosine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.