Skin science article
I Dew Care Glow-key Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Circle Eye Cream
I Dew Care Glow-key Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Circle Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. Th
I Dew Care Glow-key Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Circle Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Diisostearyl Malate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Niacinamide
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Myristyl Myristate
PEG-150 Distearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
CI 77891
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters
Pentylene Glycol
Squalane
Euphrasia Officinalis Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Luffa Cylindrica Fruit Extract
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Cyanocobalamin
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Mica
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Caprylyl Glycol
Behenic Acid
Silica
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Stearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Myristic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Water, Glycerin, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Myristyl Myristate, PEG-150 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, CI 77891, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Luffa Cylindrica Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Mica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Behenic Acid, Silica, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Stearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Myristic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Citrus Tangerina Extract
Propanediol
Arbutin
Vinyldimethicone
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Diglycerin
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Glucose
Dimethiconol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tromethamine
Fructooligosaccharides
Fructose
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Allantoin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Citrus Tangerina Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Diisostearyl Malate, Vinyldimethicone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Diglycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Glucose, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.
Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.
Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.
Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.
Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.
Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.
While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.
One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!