Skin science article
Idealove Revive Your Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
Idealove Revive Your Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide AP and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside Key Ingred
Idealove Revive Your Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide AP and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Dipropylene Glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract
Caviar Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Glycosyl Trehalose
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethiconol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Ethoxydiglycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Caviar Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Propanediol
Glyceryl Glucoside
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Tridecapeptide-1
Polyglucuronic Acid
C9-12 Alkane
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract
Bacillus Ferment
Lecithin
Sodium Phytate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hexylene Glycol
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Magnesium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Tridecapeptide-1, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C9-12 Alkane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hexylene Glycol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.
The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.
Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!