Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming moisturizer is formulate

ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Lotion Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Allantoin to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil

Cyclopentasiloxane

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethicone

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Diisostearyl Malate

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

C14-22 Alcohols

Arachidyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Palmitic Acid

Behenyl Alcohol

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Glyceryl Caprylate

Arachidyl Glucoside

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Polysorbate 60

Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract

Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea

Mannitol

Glucose

Glycine Max Oil

Myristic Acid

Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer

Arachidic Acid

Ceramide NP

Cholesterol

Silica

Phytosphingosine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopherol

Canola Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Diisostearyl Malate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Arachidyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Mannitol, Glucose, Glycine Max Oil, Myristic Acid, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Arachidic Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Silica, Phytosphingosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Canola Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Methyl Trimethicone

Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Glucoside

C12-14 Alketh-12

Maltodextrin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Betaine

Panthenol

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Polyquaternium-51

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Sodium Citrate

Beta-Glucan

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Citric Acid

Sucrose

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cyanocobalamin

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Cysteine

Methionine

Phosphoric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Glucoside, C12-14 Alketh-12, Maltodextrin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyquaternium-51, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glucose, Sodium Citrate, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Citric Acid, Sucrose, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Phosphoric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.

It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.

Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.

Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.

In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is a synthetic polymer. It's a long chain built from acrylic acid units and each unit carries a fatty "tail" derived form a C10-30 alcohol.
  4. 04Those oil-loving tails allow this ingredient to thicken oil phases, hold emulsions together, and cuts the tacky/greasy feel of heavy formulas.
  5. 05Typical use levels sit around 0.1-3%, with 0.3-3% more common in leave-on emulsions.
  6. 06This ingredient was reviewed as part of a group of 126 acrylates and concluded to be safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.
  7. 07Though acrylate contact allergy is real and well-documented, allergy risk is quite low. The cases of documented contact allergy are caused by unreacted monomers (more commonly found in gel nails, dental resins, and adhesives).
  8. 08Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
  9. 09When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
  10. 10Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
  11. 11If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
  12. 12Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
  13. 13You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damag…
  14. 14Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
  15. 15It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
  16. 16This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
  17. 17This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  18. 18In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
  19. 19Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
  20. 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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