Skin science article
ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Soothing Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)
ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Soothing Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-repair moisturizer is fo
ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Soothing Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Stearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Glyceryl Caprylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene Glycol
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Ceramide NP
Betaine
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Glycine Max Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Squalane
Madecassoside
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate
Phytosphingosine
Pentylene Glycol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Canola Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Betaine, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Glycine Max Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Squalane, Madecassoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Phytosphingosine, Pentylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Canola Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol
Niacinamide
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
C14-28 Alkyl Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Trehalose
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Cucurbitaceae Extract
Orchid Extract
Honey Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.
Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.
Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.
Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.
More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.
It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.
Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.
This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.
Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!